Showing posts with label Peru. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Peru. Show all posts
Saturday, May 7, 2011
Mancora
I flew into Tumbes and it is a pretty dangerous place according to most reports. My original plan was to try to get straight on a bus up to Ecuador but I was exhausted from my flights (I had been awake since 5am and got less than 4hrs sleep) and the thought of an 8 hr bumpy bus ride was not appealing. I met 3 Australian guys in the airport who were going to the beach town of Mancora so I decided to tag along and we split a cab there (s/32 each, 2hours). They were staying at the Loki hostel so I did the same (6 bed dorm s/28 with bathroom inside, breakfast, wifi) The hostel is right on the beach and is like a resort with a big swimming pool and 2 bars. It definitely has a spring break feel to it. The hostel was packed but the rest of the town felt pretty dead. There is also a Point Hostel in town but I guess it is far out of town and people get robbed walking there at night. Right in front of the Loki is a restaurant on the beach that serves mountains of excellent civiche for s/15. Leaving Mancora I took the CIFA international bus to Guyachil for s/60. It was a nice semi-cama (seats recline more than your average bus) bus and it left at 9pm and we arrived in Guyachil, Ecuador at 4:30am. The bus stops at both boarder points for you.
Inca Jungle Trek
I signed up for a 4day 3night “Inca Jungle Trek” and paid $160 which included everything, even the Machu Picchu entrance (s/126) and the train back to Cusco ($32usd). The operator was Conde Travel and they do other trips as well and a well regarded. They quoted me $180 but I bought it through an agent who gave me a great deal. I forget the name of the agent but its on the same street as the Conde office, just closer to the main plaza. The tour starts with pick up in Cusco and then you drive through the sacred valley of the Incas and over a pass that is at 4200meters. Just after the pass you get out and get on your mountain bike and ride down the other side of the pass with spectacular scenery. After the ride you check into a hotel in the town of Santa Maria with shared rooms and relaxed until dinner.
The second day is hiking on the Inca trail. It isn’t the “classic” inca trail that requires a permit but its all the same and was really cool with amazing scenery and some stops at locals houses.
After lunch our guide, Amoroso, asked if we wanted to have an adventure and we did so we blazed the trail through an area that was destroyed by landslides and floods a year ago. It was great. None of the girls liked it cause it was a little dangerous (maybe more than a little) but I had a great time, crossing rivers, landslides, and hacking our way through with machetes.
It couldn’t have been better. It took longer than expected though and the last 45min were in the dark which actually was dangerous because the path was treacherous and only half of us had headlamps. After arriving in the town of Santa Theresa we checked into our hotel (shared rooms again but I lucked out and got a single) and showered (ice cold showers) and had dinner. Then everyone went to the bar in town and partied the night away.
The next day was just an easy walk along a river on a dirt road and train tracks up to Aguas Calientes at the base of Machu Picchu. We checked into our hotel and had time to wonder around town or go to the hot spring pools. The people who went to the hot springs said they were kinda gross and dirty.
The next morning we left the hotel at 4am to get to the base of the access path by 4:30. The gate is suppose to open at 5am but they opened it early. Then it is a grueling 30min steep hike up to the main entrance which opens at 6am. The rush was so that we could get tickets to climb Whinna Picchu mountain and they only give them to the first 400 people in line. Amoroso gave us a tour of Machu Picchu for about 2 hours and then we were on our own. We were all in the “second group” to climb the mountain which meant our access opened at 10. Climbing the mountain is also an extremely steep climb but it only takes about 25min and offers spectacular views.
After climbing that a dutch guy and I decided to go to the Inca Bridge and the Sun Gate. Both definitely worth doing. If I went back I’d climb Machu Picchu mountain which doesn’t have an entry requirement and might have just as good views as Whinna Picchu. After you’re done exploring Machu Picchu you’re on your own, go back to Aguas Calientes and wait for the train which is at 645pm. The train is very nice and they offer a beverage service. You can also bring beers on board.
Overall Conde Travel worked out great and the tour was a great way to do Machu Picchu. A lot of the hostels in Cusco book through them and we had a great group. Definitely recommend.
Leaving Cusco I was dreading the 24hour bus ride to Lima so I looked at flights and found one to Lima for $82usd (1hr) and another from Lima to Tumbes for $86usd (1.5hrs) on Peruvian Airlines. Definitely worth it because the bus to Lima is about $50us and then the bus from Lima to Tumbes is another 20hrs and $50us. My flight out of Cusco got cancelled, however, but after some haggling with the airline, they were able to get me on the next flight out so I would still make my connection to Tumbes.
The second day is hiking on the Inca trail. It isn’t the “classic” inca trail that requires a permit but its all the same and was really cool with amazing scenery and some stops at locals houses. After lunch our guide, Amoroso, asked if we wanted to have an adventure and we did so we blazed the trail through an area that was destroyed by landslides and floods a year ago. It was great. None of the girls liked it cause it was a little dangerous (maybe more than a little) but I had a great time, crossing rivers, landslides, and hacking our way through with machetes.
The next day was just an easy walk along a river on a dirt road and train tracks up to Aguas Calientes at the base of Machu Picchu. We checked into our hotel and had time to wonder around town or go to the hot spring pools. The people who went to the hot springs said they were kinda gross and dirty.
The next morning we left the hotel at 4am to get to the base of the access path by 4:30. The gate is suppose to open at 5am but they opened it early. Then it is a grueling 30min steep hike up to the main entrance which opens at 6am. The rush was so that we could get tickets to climb Whinna Picchu mountain and they only give them to the first 400 people in line. Amoroso gave us a tour of Machu Picchu for about 2 hours and then we were on our own. We were all in the “second group” to climb the mountain which meant our access opened at 10. Climbing the mountain is also an extremely steep climb but it only takes about 25min and offers spectacular views.
After climbing that a dutch guy and I decided to go to the Inca Bridge and the Sun Gate. Both definitely worth doing. If I went back I’d climb Machu Picchu mountain which doesn’t have an entry requirement and might have just as good views as Whinna Picchu. After you’re done exploring Machu Picchu you’re on your own, go back to Aguas Calientes and wait for the train which is at 645pm. The train is very nice and they offer a beverage service. You can also bring beers on board.
Overall Conde Travel worked out great and the tour was a great way to do Machu Picchu. A lot of the hostels in Cusco book through them and we had a great group. Definitely recommend.
Leaving Cusco I was dreading the 24hour bus ride to Lima so I looked at flights and found one to Lima for $82usd (1hr) and another from Lima to Tumbes for $86usd (1.5hrs) on Peruvian Airlines. Definitely worth it because the bus to Lima is about $50us and then the bus from Lima to Tumbes is another 20hrs and $50us. My flight out of Cusco got cancelled, however, but after some haggling with the airline, they were able to get me on the next flight out so I would still make my connection to Tumbes.
Cusco
I stayed at The Point Hostel for s/20 per night in a 12 person dorm. The hostel is nice with free internet (wifi and 3 computers). The dorm was big, they had hot showers and they were always cleaning the place. The Point is a chain in Peru and there are a couple other chain “party” hostels like the Irish Rover and the Loki. The Rover is near the point and both have great locations. The Loki is a tough walk up a hill from the center. The Loki has the biggest party vibe of them and the Point is the cheapest. I’d either stay at the Point again or at the Irish Rover. Taxis anywhere in Cusco are generally s/5. There are tons or backpackers in town and a lot of people stay there to study spanish. Its a really nice town and has a lot to do around it. There is also a really big backpacker party scene which surprised me.
Friday, April 22, 2011
Puno to Cusco
Leaving Puno I decided splurge on the bus to Cusco and take the Inka Express tour (www.inkaexpress.com) which includes a buffet lunch, English speaking tour guide and stops at 4 different sites along the way. I bought direct from the company at the bus station for s70, if
you buy through your hotel or an agent you'll pay more as usual. My hotel charged s84. The bus leaves at 7:30am and arrives at 5:30pm. There was also another company called tourPeru (www.tourperu.com.pe) that had a bus doing the same exact trip and their bus was nicer. A
regular tourist direct bus to Cusco costs about s30 and you can get a local bus for s15. The Inka Express was worth it I think. The bus has a toilet but the seats aren't that great with limited leg room but It was very nice to stop at sights along the way and the lunch was very
good. The scenery along the drive is absolutely incredible. Some of the best in the world I think. The price doesn't include entrance to the sights so I skipped the first museum (s6) and I'm glad I did. The town it's in is pretty cool and it was nice to walk around away from the tourists. The second stop is the top of a pass at about 4200meters above sea level with great views. Then lunch, then an Incan archeological site that was cool, entrance was s10. The last stop was a quaint little village that had a chapel. The chapel was s6 to get in and didn't look too special so I skipped it and played frisbee with a 5 yr old Peruvian child and a piece of cardboard. When the bus arrives in Cusco it stops at the company office which is a couple kilometers from the center. Official taxis are waiting but charge s8 when it should be s5 so I took a "pirate" taxi for s5 out of principle. Might not have been the smartest thing since robberies aren't uncommon but it worked out
you buy through your hotel or an agent you'll pay more as usual. My hotel charged s84. The bus leaves at 7:30am and arrives at 5:30pm. There was also another company called tourPeru (www.tourperu.com.pe) that had a bus doing the same exact trip and their bus was nicer. A
regular tourist direct bus to Cusco costs about s30 and you can get a local bus for s15. The Inka Express was worth it I think. The bus has a toilet but the seats aren't that great with limited leg room but It was very nice to stop at sights along the way and the lunch was very
good. The scenery along the drive is absolutely incredible. Some of the best in the world I think. The price doesn't include entrance to the sights so I skipped the first museum (s6) and I'm glad I did. The town it's in is pretty cool and it was nice to walk around away from the tourists. The second stop is the top of a pass at about 4200meters above sea level with great views. Then lunch, then an Incan archeological site that was cool, entrance was s10. The last stop was a quaint little village that had a chapel. The chapel was s6 to get in and didn't look too special so I skipped it and played frisbee with a 5 yr old Peruvian child and a piece of cardboard. When the bus arrives in Cusco it stops at the company office which is a couple kilometers from the center. Official taxis are waiting but charge s8 when it should be s5 so I took a "pirate" taxi for s5 out of principle. Might not have been the smartest thing since robberies aren't uncommon but it worked out
Puno and Lake Titikaka
I stayed at Hostel Monterrey which is right on the pedestrian street in the center. It was recommended in the Lonely Planet. I negotiated a private room with bathroom for s20 but an electric heater was an extra s10. It was pretty cold so I got the heater. The bathroom had really
good hot water which was nice to take a long hot shower. They also had rooms with shared bathroom for s15. I had lunch at a locals place where I got a plate of meat, beans and rice for s3. Man it's good to be back in the third world. Haha
To go out to the Uros floating islands I walked to the boat dock and bought a ticket for s10 and paid the s5 entrance fee. The boat takes you to one of the islands where one of the guys who lives there shows you how the islands are built. They also try to sell you some stuff and encourage you to take a ride on the straw built boat for s6 to another island where there was a restaurant. The whole trip took about 2hrs.
good hot water which was nice to take a long hot shower. They also had rooms with shared bathroom for s15. I had lunch at a locals place where I got a plate of meat, beans and rice for s3. Man it's good to be back in the third world. Haha
To go out to the Uros floating islands I walked to the boat dock and bought a ticket for s10 and paid the s5 entrance fee. The boat takes you to one of the islands where one of the guys who lives there shows you how the islands are built. They also try to sell you some stuff and encourage you to take a ride on the straw built boat for s6 to another island where there was a restaurant. The whole trip took about 2hrs.
Flying to Peru
Flying to Peru I was on Copa Airlines. At the checkin in Rio the guy asked to see a ticket out of Peru which I didn't have. He was real nice though and I showed him my flight from Colombia back to the USA and that was enough but I think that if I hadn't gotten someone so nice then it could have been an issue. I have a ridiculous trip ahead of me. I fly Recife-Rio (3hrs) Rio-Panama City (7hrs), Panama City-Lima (3.5hrs), spend 9hrs overnight in the Lima airport, then
Lima-Julisca (1hr), bus Julisca-Puno (45min).
I flew on Lan Airlines from Lima to Juliaca and they let me check in 9 hrs before my flight which was great since it allowed me to check my bag and get my boarding pass so I could go through security. In the food court in Lima there is a place called Pardos Chicken the has absolutely delicious "Anticucho de Corazon" (skewered grilled beef heart pieces) for s4.50. Get them, Don't be put off by the beef heart thing, it tastes like some of the most delicious steak tips you've ever had. I found a good place to sleep in what seemed like an old smoking lounge. It had long bench seats that were pretty comfortable and it was quiet with other people sleeping in there too. There are good bench seats at the gates but access is closed from 11:00pm to
1:30am. I didn't have to pay an airport tax leaving Lima.
Arriving in Juliaca there are collectivo mini-buses waiting to take people to Puno for s15 and they take you right to your hotel.
Lima-Julisca (1hr), bus Julisca-Puno (45min).
I flew on Lan Airlines from Lima to Juliaca and they let me check in 9 hrs before my flight which was great since it allowed me to check my bag and get my boarding pass so I could go through security. In the food court in Lima there is a place called Pardos Chicken the has absolutely delicious "Anticucho de Corazon" (skewered grilled beef heart pieces) for s4.50. Get them, Don't be put off by the beef heart thing, it tastes like some of the most delicious steak tips you've ever had. I found a good place to sleep in what seemed like an old smoking lounge. It had long bench seats that were pretty comfortable and it was quiet with other people sleeping in there too. There are good bench seats at the gates but access is closed from 11:00pm to
1:30am. I didn't have to pay an airport tax leaving Lima.
Arriving in Juliaca there are collectivo mini-buses waiting to take people to Puno for s15 and they take you right to your hotel.
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